tea |tē|

a hot drink made by infusing the dried, crushed leaves of the tea plant in boiling water.

crumpet |ˈkrəmpət|

a thick, flat, savory cake with a soft, porous texture, made from a yeast mixture cooked on a griddle and eaten toasted and buttered.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Home Again

I’m now back in the states, looking back on what has been one of the most memorable and meaningful times in my life. I am so happy and thankful that I had this opportunity. I feel as if I have seen and learned so much. If you are at a point in your life where you are wondering “what’s next,” I encourage you to embark on a new adventure. Go out and see a piece of the world that you have never seen before. It doesn’t have to be England or Europe…just go out and see something new. And when you do…be sure to fill me in on all your adventures. Thanks for reading.

-Ahna :)

Saturday, August 14, 2010

It’s not America…

Here is a fun list of differences between England and the USA! Enjoy.

1. Never ask if you can “rent a bike.” In England, you do not “rent” anything. You “hire” a bike and you “let” an apartment. (We got some really weird looks when searching for a bike rental!)

2. In England sheep have long tails. Imagine a cow tail with a fluffy white perm, now transfer that to a sheep. (weird image, I know…)

3. In England, they don’t have “to go” boxes. You eat it all or you lose your chance. We tried getting a “to go” box at an Indian restaurant and the best that they could come up with was a plastic grocery bag. (“Yeah, I don’t think that I’m going to stick my leftover chicken curry in there…but thanks anyway.”)

4. There’s no tax on purchases in England! But don’t go crazy….they make up for it with the pound/dollar conversion rate.

5. You know how green lights in America turn yellow and then red? Well, in England, lights not only turn green, yellow, red, but they also turn red, yellow, green. It’s kind of like a “prep light,” so that you are ready to go when it actually is green. (Don’t worry, both lights are not actually yellow at the same time…that could cause problems.)

6. In England (especially London) there is no such thing as “the pedestrian has the right of way.” If you are in the crosswalk and that light turns green, they WILL run you down.

7. If you want lettuce on your sandwich, try ordering it with a “green salad.” I can’t make any promises, but this usually will get you some type of lettuce.

8. English dogs are almost always pure bred and well-behaved. Nearly every dog I saw was an identifiable breed such as an English Sheepdog, Border Collie, Jack Russel Terrier, Greyhound, English Springer Spaniel, etc. Leashes are a rare occurrence. Most dogs just trot dutifully beside their master.

9. English people are generally very thin. Guys do not lift weights and girls do not tan. (in general)

10. Ordering “tap water” is a sure sign that you are not European. The waiters and waitresses are generally so surprised that you would actually drink tap water, that they try to spruce it up with lemon, mint, or lime. So, as you can imagine, the tap water in England is actually much better than it is in America…even if the people act like you're drinking poison.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Last Run in England

While in Dorset, I had the opportunity to go for one of the most spectacularly beautiful runs of my life. Considering the fact that I have been running just about everyday for the past decade, this is a pretty meaningful statement. (I’d say the most breath-taking run that I’ve ever been on was in the Colorado Rockies…but this was breath-taking for entirely different reasons…think altitude…haha) Anyway, back to Dorset. Picture this: it’s early morning, a little before 7:00AM. You are at a cozy British hotel, in the middle of Dorset-nowhere, and you have absolutely no idea where you are going to run. The only hope you have is a vague suggestion from the night before, that if you go out “that way” and turn “this way,” you’ll find some old bridle paths. “Lovely,” you think, “an hour run of bumpy, poop-covered, bridle paths. Just lovely.” You decide to give it a chance and head in the suggested direction, which happens to be uphill. It starts out pretty ordinary—root, rock, ridge, rabbit hole… Just as you are beginning to worry about your ankles, you make it to the top of the hill. And there, for three magical seconds, your heart stops beating. (Not recommended for distance runners…) But, the landscape is magnificent! The sun is just rising beyond the green sloping fields, flocks of sheep graze on the hillsides, the air is crisp, cool and so clean, thick heads of grain bend and wave with the summer winds, and you—you can’t stop smiling. So you keep on running. Sunbeams dance on your eyelids, your breath is lost in the twirling winds, you see nothing but blue sky and rich earth and you thank God—audibly, loudly, before all the bleating sheep—for putting you in England and making you a runner.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Stonehenge

I can now boast that I have seen, photographed, and admired one of the most famous prehistoric monuments in the world—Stonehenge! And to be honest, that’s about all you can do at Stonehenge, brag that you have been there. :P haha, just kidding. No, seeing Stonehenge was a tremendously cool experience.



Stonehenge is composed of two circles of rock, an outer circle and an inner circle. The inner circle is made up of what is referred to as “bluestones.” Here is what makes Stonehenge amazing—these bluestones were more than likely transported over 160 miles from the Preseli Hills in modern-day Whales all the way to the southeast corner of Wiltshire. Oh, and did I mention that each of these stones weighed over 4 tons? Yes, pretty impressive. Considering the technology that they had during the Bronze Age, the feat of constructing Stonehenge would probably be the modern day equivalent of relocating the Rocky Mountains to an unpopulated coast of Figi.
As you walk around Stonehenge, you get to carry a hand-held radio device that tells you all sorts of fun facts about the construction, history, and significance of the stones. Considering the fact that there were people from all over the world, these radios came in a variety of different languages. Of course, I got to listen to the one with the cool British accent. :)
The other cool thing about Stonehenge was its relationship to Tess of the D’Urbervilles. In the novel, there is a scene where Tess and Angel are wandering through the English countryside hiding from the law. (Tess has recently murdered her 2nd husband, Alec D’Urberville). Anyway, Tess and Angel end up at Stonehenge. This, of course, is before the entire area was roped off and turned into a major audio-box tourist attraction. Well, Tess decides that she will rest upon one of the large stones. She falls asleep and awakes to be surrounded by law men. I won’t give the ending away…but I’ll just say that Tess ends up becoming a type of literary sacrifice. Poor girl.
Okay, enough about Tess…
As we were making our 400 meter pilgrimage around the Stonehenge circumference, it started to rain. Actually, it started to pour! Just imagine hundreds of Stonehenge tourists scurrying to the entry tunnel, huddling together, listening to their portable informational radios, and trying not to step on anyone’s toes…yup, that was me. So, regretfully our group did not get to take our “Study at Oxford” group photo, like we had planned. I mean, we were wearing matching Polos and everything!

Dorset and Hardy Country

Our final weekend excursion was a trip to Dorset County—the area of England where Thomas Hardy was born and raised. Hardy is the author of the novel Tess of the D’Urbervilles, a tragic tale telling the story of a young maiden’s gradual loss of innocence in response to the hardships and treachery of modern society. I found it fascinating to see the land that inspired Tess. The first glimpse of Hardy country that we observed was the heath. If you have ever read Shakespeare’s King Lear, you might remember the part of the play where Lear is abandoned by his two elder daughters and forced to wander in the barren heath land. Well, this is also the land where Tess was forced to work after Angel Clare (her husband) abandoned her to move to Brazil.



Even in the summer, the heath appears barren and harsh. Rough prickly bushes grow from the stony soil, while the rolling hills are painted with dull shades of green and brown. Rocks jut out from under the soil, causing extreme difficulty to the people working in the fields. For Tess, working to dig up swede roots at Flintcomb-Ash Farm must have been unbelievably difficult and discouraging. (Swede is the British version of a turnip or rutabaga.)
Our trusty bus-driver, tour-guide Mike explained to us that there are three major types of land in the Dorset area: heath, downs, and chalk valleys. The heath, as already mentioned, is the desolate, dry, hill land with sandy soil for growing turnips. The downs are the upland areas with flat top hills that are used for grazing. The chalk valleys are the rain-watered, lush and plentiful valleys that produce good dairy and cattle land. Throughout Hardy country, we saw a wide variety of other Tess sites including: Marnhull (inspiration for Marlott), Hardy’s cottage (nice gardens), Shaftesbury (beautiful scenic view of the landscape), and the grand finale—Stonehenge.

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

More on Oxford Running

If you continue running beyond the Oxford University Parks, you will find yourself amongst the Oxford countryside. Wooded trails might lead you alongside the Thames or perhaps around the circumference of an old corn field. (Wheat fields are known as corn fields in England! Don’t ask me why…). The mornings in Oxford tend to be peaceful and still. Locals walk their dogs, go for a jog, or carry tin lunch pails on their way to work. On a side note, it was so interesting to see people actually walking to work. In America, it seems that everyone drives everywhere—even a 5 minute trip to the grocery store is likely to involve a car. In England, public transportation, or better yet, your own two feet, is the best way to get you from A to B.
By running on these country trails, I am starting to get a feeling for the Oxford landscape that Matthew Arnold was referring to in “The Scholar Gipsy.” It seems that once you get outside the hustle and bustle of downtown, the landscape hasn’t changed much. There’s still the “Oxford towers” in the distance, the “punt’s rope” by the “glittering Thames,” the “light in Christ-Church hall,” and “tall grasses and white flowering nettles.” In fact, I had a little run-in with some nettles at the park. It so happens that just beyond the bridge at the park is a nasty patch of stinging nettles. My legs did not respond very favorably to the Oxford nettle greeting. Thankfully, the sting does fade a lot quicker than the itch of poison ivy.
Another interesting fact about the countryside around Oxford is the presence of cattle grids and cattle gates. If you want to run from one field to the next, you are almost certainly going to have to open and close a gate or hop daintily across a large metal cattle grid. The gates are pretty entertaining—each one seems to have it’s own special latch in order to open it. The grids, on the other hand, are extremely annoying. While one can walk across a grid with little fear of injury, running across one would more than likely lead to a twisted ankle or a broken foot. So, just like the cows, I tend to avoid the cattle grids.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Punting

Today, we attempted to punt in Oxford. Punting is an ancient Oxford and Cambridge tradition that involves steering a long, flat boat with a pole. One person stands on the back to steer and propel the vessel, while the others just get to sit back and enjoy the ride. The whole process looks sort of like a gondola ride in Venice. The main difference between a punt and a gondola is the presence or absence of a rudder. Gondolas, the traditional Venetian rowing boats, use a rudder as means to maneuver down the river. Punts, on the other hand, don’t believe in rudders. To steer a punt, one must drag the pole behind the vessel in the direction you wish to travel. For example, straight behind to go straight, left side to go right, and right side to go left. If this seems pretty simple, just wait until you try it. I do believe that the members of my punt spent more time on the bank, in the blackberry patch, or amongst the ducks than we actually did sailing down the river. Even so, I still enjoyed being a part of this historic Oxford tradition.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

The Lake District

William Wordsworth once described the Lake District as “the loveliest place man has ever known.” It was these lakes that filled him with insight and inspiration for all of his most famous poems. The Lake District is where Wordsworth found his words. I’m afraid that the Lake District has had the opposite effect on me. Instead of finding my words, it has left me utterly speechless…


This weekend, we spent 3 days in the lake country of England. Surrounded by mountains, green fields, shimmering lakes, waterfalls, and forest trees it was as if we had stumbled upon the doorway into Narnia. Though the big city atmosphere in London was exciting, nothing makes my heart soar like being out in nature. The scenery was spectacular! We hiked around lakes, climbed up mountains, explored waterfalls, and boated to a secret island.
For our class assignments, we toured two of William Wordsworth’s homes—Dove Cottage and Rydal Mount. My favorite house was Rydal Mount. There was an extraordinary garden in the back where Wordsworth used to hike for inspiration. Even though it was wet and rainy, the garden was breath-taking. I would have loved to explore this area when I was a kid. It would have been the perfect childhood play land. Besides the houses, we also had a chance to explore the building where Wordsworth attended school as a boy. The school tour was the most fascinating of all three tours. It turns out that the boys of this time period were actually allowed to write graffiti on the desks, floors, and walls of the school. Since all the boys were provided with pen knives to sharpen their quills, you can imagine what the desktops looked like! On one of the desks, preserved by a special glass cover, is the penknife carving of the name William Wordsworth. Can you imagine being so famous that people actually strive to preserve your graffiti?



I know the first paragraph of this post described how the Lake District left me speechless with wonder. Well, on one run through the mountain trails, my words finally returned to me. Here is a poem I composed on a 60-min run. :)

Thoughts on the Lake District

Wordsworth, I’ve seen your lakes
Your mists, your mountains, your forests divine.
I’ve stood on the edge of a terrible cliff,
Awestruck and breathless—at the sublime.
I’ve watched the glow of Cassiopeia
Crown the sky with beads of light.
I’ve breathed the air of Lakeland mountains
As Polaris rose to guide the night.
I’ve ambled along a country path
Watching the sheep frolic and graze.
I’ve clambered up a mountain slope
Surrounded, it seemed, by heavenly haze.
I’ve rowed across a lake of crystal,
As orange sun set behind the hills.
I’ve watched the painted dragonflies
Float and weave above the rills.
“The loveliest place man hath known”
—these words were penned by your hand
I have no question of this truth
For you were champion of this land.
But there’s one boast I hold to my name,
One small achievement, a mark of my fame.
I’ve risen at dawn to greet the sun,
And where you have walked
Oh, Wordsworth—I have run!

-ALL

Stratford-upon-Avon

Today was our excursion to Stratford-upon-Avon, the birthplace of William Shakespeare. For many lovers of literature, visiting Stratford is a pilgrimage to see the origins of one of the most-beloved, most-quoted, most-esteemed authors of all time (some would argue the greatest writer ever!) Did you know that every minute of the day, someone, somewhere in the world is watching, acting, or reading a performance of Hamlet? That’s pretty impressive, considering he wrote the play nearly 400 years ago.
Stratford is located about an hour away from Oxford in South Warwickshire, England. It is a small village nestled just beside the Avon River. Although lovely, I would consider the town to be somewhat of a tourist trap. (Similar to the way L.M. Montgomery’s Anne of Green Gables has taken over Cavendish, PEI) The streets are peppered with corny shop names such as the “As You Like It Café,” “Shakespeare Pub,” “Anne’s Cottage Pie,” and “Sweet Smelling Rose.”
We began our tour at Shakespeare’s birthplace in which I was able to see the very room in which William was born. He probably stayed in this room for 3 or 4 years with his parents and younger brothers and sisters. The house was not very big, so all of the family had to share accommodations.
Perhaps the most amazing part of the house was an old glass window carefully preserved in a wooden frame. This window held the signatures of many famous people who had previously visited the cottage, including John Adams, Thomas Jefferson, Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, John Keats, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Charles Dickens, Mark Twain, Thomas Hardy, and Sir Walter Scott. It was amazing to see all these names in one place. It was like walking the streets of Hollywood. I was especially excited because many of the visitors were famous authors. Now that I have joined the ranks of the Shakespeare pilgrims, perhaps some of their creative penmanship can rub off on me. There should now be nothing holding me back from being a famous writer… haha. :)
My other favorite part was seeing the original folio of all of Shakespeare’s plays. This book was held up in a glass case and illuminated by special effects lights to make it appear as if it had descended from literary heaven. The display probably took the concept a little too far, but it was neat to see the book.
A fun story that occurred during our tour of the cottage began when I first entered the basement of the house. The tour guide was dressed in typical 17th century English garb with a round English beer-belly and a thick British accent. Myself, on the other hand, was simply wearing a WVU t-shirt, with nothing of a beer belly and a distinct American accent. Anyway, when he saw me, he immediately smiled and said, “Oh, West Virginia! Are you a student?”
I was somewhat startled but managed to say, “umm, yes, I am.”
“Wonderful,” he replied, “Are you based in Charleston?” For some reason, I didn’t catch on and stared at him blankly. I finally replied, “No, I’m from Morgantown.” A British woman behind me calmly attempted to correct the situation. She loudly announced to the entire group, “Charleston is in another state, not in West Virginia.”
Thus, we began our Shakespeare tour discussing (somewhat awkwardly and incorrectly) the geography of America, instead of the inside of Shakespeare’s childhood home.
After the birthplace, we took a quick break to grab some delicious tea and scones. If you have never tried clotted cream, you must put it on your “to do” list. It’s lovely on scones—something of a mixture between cream cheese and whipped cream. Once you add a dollop of black currant preserves, you’ll be hooked for life.
The next phase of our excursion took us by Shakespeare’s old Grammar School. This aged stone building is where Shakespeare most likely (no one knows for sure) attended classes as a boy. It is actually still a school today, although boys no longer have to attend classes for 12-hours straight! In Shakespeare’s time they had class from 6am to 6pm. I can hardly imagine how difficult that would be.
The last part of our excursion took us to Anne Hathaway’s cottage. No, I am not referring to the actress in Ella Enchanted and The Princess Diaries. The Anne that I am referring to was Shakespeare’s sweetheart and wife. The cottage is where he courted her…and supposedly where he read her love sonnets under the willow bower. This house was postcard perfect: a quaint half-timbered cottage surrounded by wonderful gardens and walking trails. My favorite thing inside the house was an old wooden bench that Will and Anne used to sit on together. The old owners of the house were known to sell pieces of the bench to visiting tourists. Over the years the bench gradually wore down to stubby board with holes all though it. The cottage museum decided that no more pieces of the bench should be sold…so regretfully I will not be bringing home a piece in my suitcase.
Our Stratford tour ended with a grand highlight—a performance of As You Like It at the Swan Theater! In the play, there is a scene where Orlando goes about the forest of Arden tacking up poorly written love poetry on the trees in order to display his fierce devotion to Rosalind. Well, this scene occurred right around the intermission. I left the theater to get a snack and when I returned, the stage and seating area had been transformed with posters and signs, declaring Orlando’s love. I did not expect such a funny interpretation of this scene, so of course I enjoyed it immensely.
It always fascinates me how every director has a unique interpretation of a play. It doesn’t matter if two directors are directing the same play…the plays will never appear the same. It all depends upon how the director interprets the scenes. This process is similar to the reading of literature. As a future teacher, I want to encourage my students to look at literature as a director would look at a play. I would ask them things like: What is this scene saying to you? How would you represent this scene visually? Why does the author include this scene? As “literature directors,” it is the students’ job to take what they have experienced and understood from a novel, play, or poem and share these interpretations with everyone else. A good director should also be able to thoroughly defend and protect his or her interpretation. The fact that each student will see every line, every sentence, and every word a little differently is what makes reading, writing, and teaching literature so interesting.
(Sorry if that teaching philosophy stuff was boring…I just needed to process what I was learning.) My next post will begin the tales of the Lake District! Cheers!

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Third Day in London

Saturday morning, I literally had to drag myself out of bed. I decided that I needed an easy day, so I went on a 40-minute run back over to St. James’ Park. For breakfast, I snatched a bowl of porridge at a local café and then traveled with the group to the Tate Museum. This museum holds a wide collection of famous works of art—mostly paintings and portraits. For our class, we were instructed to find art that related to the British landscape and the elegiac form. I took some detailed notes and made a quick outline for my next essay. I’ll have to admit, I felt quite studious carrying my notebook around, pen behind ear, with a look of artistic concentration and quiet reflection upon my face. Well, after the museum we tubed over to the home of John Keats, a famous British poet. His house was quite picturesque, with a lovely garden area and sitting room. I could easily imagine the young Keats, sitting in his garden and carefully crafting the lines to “Ode to a Nightingale” as the gentle birds sang in the trees above him. After Keats, we had time to explore on our own. Our first stop was at King’s Cross train station. I’m afraid that the workers at King’s Cross have become a little fed-up with Harry Potter fanatics…they weren’t very friendly. Since we were lost we tried asking one of the attendants for directions: “Excuse me sir, but could you tell me where I might find Platform 9 and 3 quarters?”
The bored looking train attendant, rolled his eyes and pointed us back to the front of the station. “’Round the back, turn left.” Of course, once we arrived, we soon discovered that it was just a brick wall with a sign and half a luggage trolley sticking out from the wall. Still, it was cool to take pictures.
After Platform 9 ¾ we stopped at Baker Street to visit that renowned Sherlock Holmes. The line to get into the museum went all the way down the street, so regretfully we only got to look in the gift shop. Still, it was fun to actually be on Baker Street. I then went back to the flat for a short rest. At 6:00, it was time to meet Dr. Stewart at Primrose Hill.
Here is what I wrote in my journal…
I’m sitting on Primrose Hill, the highest point in Regent’s Park. It’s a Saturday evening and we are all enjoying a picnic of fresh bread, cheese, strawberries, peaches, and cherries. It is absolutely delicious. The fruit in Europe is so sweet—perfectly ripe like the produce purchased at a Farmer’s Market. We laugh and tell stories and watch the sunset over the hill. A landscape of London stretches before us. I see the London Eye, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and the London Zoo.
Other people sit on blankets around us—families with young children, a group of friends and a summer salad, a pair of lovers holding hands. It’s a place to escape in London, to feel on top of the world and see the city beneath your feet. The sun warms our backs, the sky is a light, wispy blue. I never dreamed I’d be here. I am so blessed to have this experience—to see the world, to meet new people, to have this adventure. I put my pen away and watch the sun settle behind the hill.

Shakespeare and the Globe

By the time we arrived at the Globe, we were already 15 minutes late. I was so afraid that they weren’t going to let us in the see the show. I would never be able to forgive myself for being in London and missing my chance to see the most famous Shakespeare theatre in the world. It would almost be as bad as an astronaut passing up an opportunity to walk on the moon.
Thankfully, we had our tickets on reserve and after a quick check-in, we were ushered inside the swinging doors of the main entrance. When you enter the Globe Theatre you walk directly into what is known as “the pit.” This is a semi-circle of “standing room only” where, in order to see the play, you have to stand the entire time. Reminiscent of a Mountaineer football game, the true fans are the ones who stand. Above the pit, reclining gracefully on cushion-backed benches, are the wealthy patrons of the gallery. While a place in this section of the theatre may be significantly more expensive, it is also significantly more comfortable.
Of course, this whole setup is meant to parallel Shakespeare’s original Globe Theatre. Nearly 400 years ago, the peasants of London would pay one penny for a standing spot in the pit. For these peasants, a penny was no insignificant sum. Many manual labor jobs were known to pay only a penny-a-day during this time period. The gallery was only for noblemen and ladies who could afford such luxuries as seat-cushions and backrests.
In order to give our class the true Globe experience, our professors decided that the young people would be placed in the pit. (At only £5 a ticket, it’s still a pretty good deal!) The professors, on the other hand, decided to exercise their social and economic power and each took seats in the gallery. Since the play was already underway when we entered the Globe, I was immediately drawn into the action. We were seeing Anne Boleyn, a modern play not written by Shakespeare, but created to parallel his artistic style. The play told the story of Anne Boleyn, a young protestant noblewoman who became Henry VIII’s second wife and consequently, the Queen of England. Anne was eventually to become the mother of Elizabeth I, the most famous and influential queen in history of England. The play centered upon the religious upheaval and political tension that was going on in England during the time of the Protestant Reformation. (History people, if I got any of that wrong…please feel free to correct me.)
Well, I was standing amongst the other “peasants,” watching the sweet pageantry of the theater, when I noticed something: my feet were hurting. In fact, they were throbbing. I had literally been walking, running, and tubing around London all day and I was absolutely exhausted. Not to mention, I hadn’t had any dinner! About the second act, I began to cast envious glances at the people in the gallery. Look at them in their fluffy cushioned seats…grrr…I hope their legs are cramping! Okay, maybe I didn’t wish that…but I got pretty close. As I began to brew a second envious thought, another more gentle idea entered my consciousness: Who am I to complain? I am standing in the Globe Theatre. Years ago, men, women, and children gave up a day’s wages just to come here and stand. They were probably more tired, more exhausted, and more in need of food than I am. At that very moment, I looked up and saw the night sky. The stars glowed above me as the actors danced across the famous stage. I was suddenly glad that I wasn’t sitting in the gallery—for these rich and comfortable people had missed seeing the stars.
It didn’t take long before I was once again, lost in the action of the play. The lively costumes, vivid acting, interesting plot, and charm of the Globe melted the pain in my feet and quieted my growling tummy. Perhaps this is how it worked for the peasants of Shakespeare’s time as well. For them, the theater was a way to forget life’s problems and take a step into another world.
After the show, we all headed down to a Greek restaurant by the river. By now it was around 10:30pm and my reflective, peaceful mood had once again transformed into a frenzied quest for food. Dr. Stewart had left the theater a couple minutes early and much to my joy and delight had ordered a wide variety of Greek appetizers. Let me tell you, the food was delicious! (This may have been because I hadn’t eaten in 8 hours…but I rather think that it was really good food as well.) All dishes were served on little plates stacked on top of each other in a tiny “Food Tower of Pisa.” There were chicken and steak kebobs, yoghurt dressings, hummus, pitas, lentils, rice, baby potatoes, salads, cheeses, little fried meatball things, couscous, wrapped grape leaves, tofu on a stick, and French fries. (haha, don’t know why they had French fries) Well, after this dinner I decided that Greek in London just might be the new best thing ever. We arrived home at midnight and I have never been so happy to go to bed.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Second Day in London

The day began with my morning 60-minute run. And, since I was in London, I thought that I might just run over and visit the queen. Although she didn’t come out to chat, I did enjoy running through St. James’ park, which happens to be located directly in front of the royal palace. The park was originally constructed for royalty to walk amongst the gardens and talk with the people about the affairs of the country. Maybe the queen will meet up with me for tomorrow’s run...or she could just send William or Harry, I wouldn’t mind. :)
For our second day in London we decided to visit all the big attractions first. We saw Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, and Big Ben. All so beautiful! We then moved on to see the “Magnificent Maps” exhibition at the British Library. This was an amazing collection of ancient and modern maps from all over the world. It was fascinating to see all the different styles, shapes, and colors of these famous maps. One of my favorite displays was an old English map from around the 6th century. It was drawn on a piece of canvas in an odd triangular shape. Dr. Connor explained that this map was actually made from a cow’s hide. The artist drawing the map maintained the shape so that the map could be as large as possible. Another interesting feature of the maps were the many occurrences of sea monsters roaming the deep oceans. There were also many geographical “mistakes” such as the “Sea of California” (a sea separating California from the rest of the continental US) and an Australian continent that stretched all the way around the world.
I was planning to take some pictures of these maps and had actually just taken a very nice shot of Dr. Connor admiring an early map of Italy, when a library security guard approached me. He curtly informed me that picture-taking was against the rules. He then proceeded to have me take out my camera and delete, in his presence, all photos taken in the British Library. :( My friend, Christine saw this whole incident and just assumed the friendly British guard wanted to see all the pictures that I had taken. Well, not exactly.
The other fascinating sight in the British Library, which, after learning my lesson, I did not photograph, was the original Beowulf manuscript. (English majors I know that you are jealous!) I’m not sure if everyone remembers reading Beowulf in high school, but it is the epic tale of a brave warrior and his battle against the monster, Grendel. Well, at the British Library, I got to see the original Old English manuscript! I must say that I was awestruck by this ancient work of art. Many scholars consider Beowulf to be the foundation of all English literature and that is a huge honor!
After the library, we moved on to free time in London. I tagged along with the group going to Camden Market in order to taste the wide variety of international delicacies. If anyone has heard Amanda’s description of “ghetto food alley” in East Asia—this was extremely similar. There were all sorts of tents, stands and corner shops selling Chinese, Thai, Moroccan, Indian, Middle Eastern, Italian, Greek, and a couple of French creperies. As you walk along the food stalls, its like the sellers have a giant competition to try to get you to choose their food. Chinese women hold chunks of orange chicken on forks and call “Free sample. You like chicken? Come try sample!” Across the alley the Indian women are preparing vegetable curry, while the Greek chefs offer freshly grilled kebobs. Different sellers have different chants, so sounds like “3.99!”, “Rice, chicken, vegetable!”, and “Healthy and fresh!” fill the air. I finally settled for a Middle Eastern salad with couscous, hummus, cucumber and tomato, lentils, and French bread (don’t ask me how the bread got there, but it was really good!). Shannon decided to try a Nutella and banana crepe for dessert.
After lunch, the girls decided to go shopping, while I went with Kevin, Gary, and Dr. Stewart to the British Museum. We didn’t stay long, but the glimpse of history I got to see was fabulous! Most remarkably, I got to see the original Rosetta Stone. This stone, containing the script of 3 different languages was the key to deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was amazing to think that the piece of slate before me singlehandedly opened the vault to thousands and thousands of years of Egyptian history. Without uncovering that ancient slab of rock, who knows how long the world would have waited to read the history of Egypt. Perhaps we’d still be waiting...
Also in the museum were the detailed stone carvings from the top of the Parthenon in Greece. Although these carvings are originally from Greece—England acquired them in 1816 by purchasing them from the Ottoman Turks. Greece has been trying desperately to get these works of art back, but the British government argues that it has been Great Britain and not Greece who has protected and preserved them all these years. It is still an ongoing debate.
I also had the opportunity to see who I thought was the original Cleopatra. Of course, I was thrilled at this idea….until I later found out that what I saw was simply “a Cleopatra.” It seems that there are several, and experts are not really sure which is the right one. Well, at least I got to see one of them!
The boys and I then decided to travel back to Camden Town to take a ride on a British canal cruise! This was an awesome adventure. We started in Camden and sailed all the way down to Little Italy, which is the part of town where Robert Browning used to live! (He wrote “My Last Duchess” and various other famous British poems). The tour included all kinds of interesting facts about the canal culture and lives of those who lived on the boats. It was so intriguing to see this other side of London. By the end of the cruise, it had just turned 6:00pm and we were supposed to meet at 6:45pm to travel to the Globe Theatre. Therefore, Gary, Kevin, Dr. Stewart and I literally ran to the Tube station (“Mind the gap, please!”) and quickly sailed back to the Victoria tube stop.
Coming soon…the Globe Theatre!

First Day in London

We arrived around 3:00pm and headed straight to our apartment flat. Yes, I am staying in on the 7th floor of a very nice London apartment! There are three bedrooms (2 small and 1 large), as well as a kitchen, dining room, and small living room. The boys are on the 6th floor, while the professors are taking residence in the apartment beside them. After dropping off our luggage and quickly changing our clothes, we headed into the city! We started our tour with Piccadilly Circus, otherwise known as the “Times Square” of London.
Busy streets, flashing lights, street side demonstrations, shops, singers, ethnic foods, and colorful people—Piccadilly really is a circus! While some of the others stopped to get coffee, Kevin and I found an authentic English teashop and got to taste a variety of different teas. My favorite was the “Summer Peach.” :) After the circus, we headed over to Trafalgar Square. This area of London used to be infested with pigeons. In the past, if a person held up two hands full of birdseed they would soon be covered, head-to-toe, in pigeons! Well, the city of London decided that this was somewhat of a health concern, so they soon took pains to stop the pigeons—beginning with the implementation of a £500 fine for feeding them. And, much like the football stadium in our own, dear Morgantown, London also added the sounds and cries of birds of prey. The only difference between Morgantown and London’s bird removal plan is that in London, they introduced the actual birds of prey—and not just the recordings. Needless to say, the pigeons were reduced substantially.
We ended the evening with a charming dinner at an Indian Restaurant. The Indian food in London is superb. I had a vegetable curry and chicken biryani, not to mention numerous appetizers, such as somosas, curry potatoes, and naan bread.
The highlight of my first day was a ride in a real London Taxi! While the others were planning to go out to get drinks, I decided that I was pretty tired and wanted to get back to the apartment. Since I was still learning my way around the Underground “Tube” system (the British version of the DC Metro and NY Subway), Dr. Stewart decided that I had better take a cab. It was so much fun! The driver gave me a “mini-tour” and I even got to ride by St. James Park and Buckingham Palace. (Check out Facebook for a cab ride video!)

The English Countryside – Cotswolds

I discovered today that not all grass in England is flat, smooth, and short like I previously believed. In fact, a very large portion of the grass in England is thick, hilly, and filled with ridges, stones, and sheep droppings. Today, we traveled to the English country villages (Cotswolds) and the English countryside. It was breath-taking! I felt as if I had walked right into a Jane Austen novel. There were rolling hills, wooden fences, herds of sheep, ripening crops, gentle streams, and numerous trees and wildflowers. It was the landscape that I have always dreamed about.
We began our tour of the country at the original site of Abingdon Abbey. This famous abbey was actually dismantled by King Henry VIII in the 16th century in order to make profit for the royal family and decrease the number of Catholic churches in England. This process was known as the “Dissolution of the Monasteries.” The money from the monasteries went directly to Henry’s treasure hoard, while the stones and brick of the monasteries were used as supplies for other buildings. Although nothing now remains of the actual abbey, we were able to see the outline of the building traced by bricks around a large grass field. The grounds of Abingdon are now used as public parks and recreation areas. There is even a children’s water park. I found the place to be hauntingly peaceful. Even with the sounds of children laughing and playing in the background, the abbey grounds have retained a serene atmosphere. It’s like a piece of history that will never fade. I seem to feel that way about much of England—like there is a history hiding in everything. I am always wondering who walked here before me, what was their story, and what did they accomplish with their lives? I suppose a person does not have to be in England to appreciate history. There are stories from every location—people have laughed, cried, loved, and hated since the beginning of time. People have run up against obstacles, fought with endurance, and come out successful. They, in their own way, have made history.
I’d like to encourage you to discover a piece of the history that surrounds you. Even if it is simply the story of your family, take time to appreciate what you have learned from the past. And don’t ever forget, that no matter where you are and who you are, you are writing your own history.

At the conclusion of our abbey tour, we walked around the country towns in the area. Everybody and everything seemed so quaint and friendly. It reminded me of a small American farming town. I even bought a piece of fruit at a little shop where we stopped to purchase water.
After exploring the villages, it was soon time for my favorite part of the journey—the hike. Our bus dropped us off at the trailhead and we entered the fields. I felt exactly like Elizabeth Bennet on my way to Pemberly [Pride and Prejudice], or perhaps Marianne Dashwood out for one of her rainy day walks [Sense and Sensibility]. We briskly walked the hills, scattering sheep, watching the stream bank, and humming hiking tunes. On one of the trails, Christine, Shannon, and I even discovered some little snails. :) Thanks to our fearless leader, Dr. Lamb, we were led safely to the neighboring village where our bus was waiting to pick us up. Here ends another wonderful day in England.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

A Midsummer Night’s Dream

So, before I write about the British countryside, of which you have probably already seen my pictures, I have to tell you about A Midsummer Night’s Dream. It was exactly that—a dream of a performance! I don’t know if I have ever seen such a well-performed and entertaining play! The theatre troupe that performed the play was made up of professionals from the globe theatre in London. They are a traveling theatre troupe just like Shakespeare’s original group. And let me tell you—they were talented! We were all laughing nonstop from beginning to end. :)
Paired with the excellent acting was a breath-taking location. The play was performed in the center courtyard of the Bodleian Library. This courtyard is completely surrounded by towering stone walls and cloisters. These walls provide excellent acoustics and a nice echo so that the actors didn’t need to use microphones. The air was open above us and, as the night progressed, we began to see the twinkling stars. I’ve decided that there is nothing to compare to an open-air theatre. It is an experience I would definitely recommend. However, it did threaten to rain at the beginning of the performance (I’m in England, afterall) but the skies soon cleared and we were in for a night of wild entertainment. Thankfully, my group was not sitting in the front row, for those poor souls were often pulled onto stage, kissed jubilantly, or made to do funny antics in front of the audience. :P As the people were laughing, clapping, and literally enjoying every second, I found myself wondering what Shakespeare would have thought. How would he respond if he knew that nearly 400 years after his death, people would still love watching his plays? The thought itself is overwhelming. Congratulations to you, Mr. Shakespeare, you’re still making people laugh.
I can hardly wait for London and the chance to experience the Globe Theatre! Rumor has it that since our professors want us to get “the real Globe experience,” we will be located not in the comfy chairs bestowed upon rich people, but instead in the “peasant’s pit.” As of right now, I can only imagine what that means…

Gala Part II

For some reason, I feel that I did not do justice to the entire gala experience. There were two stories that were so funny I simply cannot leave them out. The first story is Christine’s shoes. To begin with, you may recall how I have mentioned that the Oxford grass is sacred and not to be touched under any circumstances. Well, I was wrong. In the event of a gala dinner, you actually are allowed to stand daintily on the Oxford grass, sip champagne, and discuss the differences between Spenser and Milton. Well, we were doing just that—standing on the grass, sipping champagne, talking about Spenser and Milton—when I noticed dime-sized holes poked throughout the lawn. At first, I thought it was some sort of yard ventilation. However, I soon realized that wherever Christine went, these little holes seemed to follow. And the longer Christine stood in one location, the deeper the holes seemed to become. Sure enough, it was Christine’s high-heels that had been puncturing the lawn! After trying desperately to “patch” the grass, we couldn’t help laughing about the whole situation. No wonder they don’t want Americans traipsing through the yard!
The second story occurred after dinner as we (well, some of us) were sipping port and munching on smelly British cheeses. It so happened that Dr. Connor had invited a special guest named Stuart Lee to dinner that night. Mr. Lee is originally from Scotland and is a good friend of Dr. Connor and the rest of the professors. Well, as we were all laughing, joking, and having a good time, a giant mouse (we hope it was a mouse) scampered out from behind the fireplace. Before anyone could really react, Dr. Connor jubilantly announced, “Well, I told you all I was inviting Stuart to dinner, but I didn’t realize Stuart Little was coming!” This, of course, brought about even more laughter. Meanwhile, the poor mouse didn’t know how to escape the room and was running around in mouse-sized circles. Thankfully, Dr. Lamb had the courtesy to open the door and let him outside to which Dr. Connor informed the rest of the room, “It seems Stuart Little is late to another dinner party.” We all couldn’t stop laughing.

Monday, July 26, 2010

Gala Dinner

Wow, tonight we had our first gala dinner. This was by far the most elaborate dinner that I have ever experienced. The evening began with champagne and orange juice at 6:15. After chatting in the courtyard, we moved into the dining hall for our first course at 7:00. There were four courses with a different type of wine to match each course. The main course was Roasted Supreme of Chicken with a Cider Sauce served with Mustard Mash, Mange Tout and Courgette. In translation: chicken, mashed potatoes, snow peas, and zucchini. It was delicious. The Vodka Raspberry Panacotta with Flemish Biscuits that we had for dessert was not my favorite…but I did enjoy the biscuit and raspberry. After dinner we moved into more cozy accommodations for cheese, biscuits, fruit, Turkish delight, chocolates, and port. I tried Turkish delight, lychee, and star fruit for the first time. All very good. The lychee was my favorite…it kind of reminded me of a kiwi, except that instead of green it was white and hot pink. Tomorrow we head to Cotswold for another grand adventure.

Class and Tartar Sauce Sandwich

We had our first class in Oxford today. It was held in one of the old classrooms at Brasenose college. We sat around a large table, alongside our professors, and discussed the first four of our old English poems. I felt so intellectual and important to be able to join in this conversation. In Oxford, learning is about having discussion, asking questions, sharing ideas, challenging viewpoints, and defining your own opinions. There is less emphasis on long lectures and unnecessary memorization. Learning is seen as a personal quest. While studying at Oxford, a traditional student is assigned a specific professor with whom they will attend tutorials. These tutorials are one-on-one meetings where the professor will discuss ideas, themes, and content with the students. It is a student’s responsibility to prepare for these tutorials, to answer questions thoughtfully, and to have questions of their own to ask the professor. I am excited to have the opportunity to experience this “tutorial approach” with our own WVU professors here at Oxford.
One of the things that has struck me the most about Oxford is the atmosphere of learning. Education does not just occur in the classroom from 9:00 to noon every morning. Instead, some of the most brilliant ideas are formed over a cup of tea or a pint of summer ale. The students here can’t help being academic: it flows in the culture of the city. Everywhere you look there is record of some greatness that was achieved in the past…I mean, one of the museums even has the blackboard on which Einstein solved the question of relativity!
I am so glad to be a part of this culture. Whether walking through the gardens that inspired Lewis Carroll, seeing the manuscripts in the Bodleian library, or watching a classically performed Shakespeare play, I know that I am going to learn more than I ever imagined.
At 10:30, class was interrupted by a lovely snack of tea and biscuit cookies. No crumpets yet, but I’ll keep you posted. :)
After class, I strolled down to high street to get some lunch. I love lunchtime in England! The English cafés are fabulous. The American paninis, baguettes, salads, and pastries simply do not compare to what you can find in Europe. For lunch, I had sundried tomato and fresh mozzarella on a crispy multigrain baguette, an apple, and a sparkling water all for £3.33. The only stipulation to this price is that you have to order it “take away”—if you want to eat in it’s another 75 pence. My sandwich was delicious; the only weird thing is that there was some type of sauce (which, regretfully, tasted exactly like tartar sauce) all over the top of the sandwich. I didn’t really care though, because the fresh bread and cheese were amazing.

My First Run at Oxford

In European cross-country, obstacles (hay bales, mud pits, water, etc.) are often placed in the way of the runners in order to slow them down. I now understand why. England is extremely comfortable for cross-country running. For one thing, it’s completely flat. In Oxford, there are no rolling hills, slight upgrades, or massive mountains—just smooth, even terrain. Another thing is the grass. Kept neat, trim, and crisp, the grass barely raises an inch above the ground. It’s like running on a spring-padded track. Next we have the temperature…a balmy 62° is the perfect weather for a run. And, if that’s a little warm for your liking, there’s often a nice misty rain to keep you feeling fresh. Add that to the overcast sky and you completely eliminate your chance of a sunburn.
As you can see from this description, my first run in Oxford was quite enjoyable. There is an excellent park only a half a mile from Brasenose College. It’s filled with crushed gravel trails (my favorite) and many interesting trees, flowers, ponds, and waterfowl. Behind the park is a bike trail and a series of grass fields for football, rugby, dog agility (!) and various other outdoor sports. These fields were also nice to run on—and unlike the Oxford campus—you are allowed to step on the grass. ;)

10 Tips for Success in England-Learn from my mistakes!

1. When crossing the street, begin first by looking right, and then look left. This may seem counter intuitive, but you have to remember that cars drive on the left in England! Taxi drivers will not be happy if you walk out in front of them.

2. If your sandwich comes with “chips,” this does not means a bag of Lays or Doritos. This means a pile of thick cut French Fries. If you want American chips, you have to order “crisps.”

3. If someone asks you if you want your water with “gas,” don’t be offended. This simply means carbonated water.

4. A pound is more than a dollar. A “bargain price” £30 pair of shoes is not necessarily a bargain.

5. Authentic Indian food is spicy. Even if they say it’s mild, don’t listen. They lie.

6. When inside a church, be careful where you step. Important people are often buried in the floor.

7. Don’t fall in love with a person, just because they have a British accent. You’re in England, everyone has a British accent.

8. The grass in Oxford is sacred. Don’t sit in the grass, don’t step on the grass, don’t touch the grass!

9. Go easy on the tea in the evening. The Brits tend to make it a little strong.

10. Lastly, you don’t need to tell people that you are an American. Believe me, they’ll be able to figure it out.

That's all I've got right now, but I'm sure that there will be more tips to follow…

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Pad Thai + English Beer

We experienced the joys of Thai cuisine for our first dinner in Oxford. Located in a tavern building that is often cited as one of the oldest halls in Oxford, it was another historical food experience. It is interesting to see the blending of Oriental culture with the English culture. Hundreds of years ago, I am sure that the English townspeople never imagined that Thai cuisine would be served in this location. It really speaks to the way the world is getting smaller—cultures are blending and people are more connected then they ever were in the past.
Besides Thai restaurants, there are also a lot of Indian restaurants in Oxford. Since India was a colony of Great Britain, it makes sense that Indian culture is very prevalent in England. One of my professors even joked that since England doesn’t have a clearly defined national food—Indian food should be considered the national cuisine.
After dinner, we all went to get beers at the Turf Tavern. A pint of English beer or port after dinner is a widely practiced English custom. Although I didn't get a beer, it was interesting to experience this tradition.

Brasenose College

I am now in my dorm room, relaxing after a sight-seeing tour of the Oxford campus. Let me just say, Oxford is amazing! There is so much beauty, architecture, culture, and history. Everywhere I turn I feel as if I am surrounded by greatness.
When we first arrived in Oxford we took some time to freshen up and then headed to a real English pub for lunch. Founded in the 17th century, the pub we dined in has been a favorite for generations of Oxford graduates. Just walking into the pub was awesome…I felt as if I were sitting beside all my favorite characters from a fantasy novel. There was Frodo Baggins in the corner sipping ale and guarding the ring, Eragon listening to Brom tell a tale of the old Dragon Riders, and Harry Potter having a pint at The Three Broomsticks with Ron and Hermione. Besides feeling like a fantasy novel, I also felt overwhelmed with a sense of history. Who knows what famous Oxford graduate might have sat by the very same window? I was eating on some pretty ancient territory.

My group decided to order traditional British foods. I enjoyed a vegetable pasty—Redwall fans, you know exactly what I’m talking about. It was delicious—baked in a flaky shell and filled with yummy veggies, it was kind of like a personal potpie. My friend Shannon had fish and chips. I’d list all the orders, but I’m sure I will write plenty about food in the near future, so I will try to contain myself. I just have to say that I think pasties might be my new favorite thing…and I am delighted to see that there is an entire shop dedicated to pasty baking and selling right in downtown Oxford. :)

My dorm room is quite elegant, for a dorm room. It is spacious and has a window that looks out into a courtyard. Some of the group members got super-lucky and received a room with special features such as a piano or a tile fireplace. I don’t mind though, I like my room’s simplicity. :)

More to come soon, but I am too tired right now!

On to Heathrow…

After sitting on the runway at JFK for nearly an hour, we finally began our flight to London. I had lucky seating a second time and was able to meet another new friend on the airplane. This time, instead of Salt Lake City, my new friend was traveling to Nairobi, Kenya to see her family. If I thought my flight to London was long, Sophie (my new friend) had another 9 hours until she got to Kenya! (Not to mention a 3-hour layover in England…) I really should never complain again.
After chatting with Sophie for a while, I soon discovered that she just graduated with a degree in an early-childhood education. Thus, began an entertaining conversation on teaching, education, college, travel, family, future goals, and that strange traveler’s insurance commercial where meerkats ride on the top of a crocodile's mouth and lions play with gazelles. (In Sophie’s words, “Like, that’ll ever happen!”)

Half-way to Heathrow
Well, I just finished my first dinner of the trip: microwavable airplane food. You know, it really wasn’t too bad, except for the fact that there wasn’t much of it. I chose the chicken and mashed potatoes, instead of the spinach Alfredo pasta. I figured that mashed potatoes were a more British option…not to mention that I also had pasta for lunch, and I don’t particularly care for Alfredo sauce. Haha, okay, maybe I didn’t think twice about choosing the more “British Option.” After dinner, I relaxed by watching The Diary of a Wimpy Kid. I know it’s a kid’s movie, but as a future teacher, I thought that it would help get me the insider’s look on what it is like to be in middle school. I actually quite enjoyed the film and thought that there were some valuable lessons about growing up, staying true to your friends, and being yourself—ahh “teaching moments.” Okay, I know that this is only interesting to 5% of the people who read this, so I will stop. Next update will be from Oxford!

Thursday, July 22, 2010

The Voyage

In Pittsburgh…
In less than 12 hours, I will be studying abroad at Brasenose College at the University of Oxford in England. Oxford is considered by many to be the oldest university in the English-speaking world. With the first record of teaching in 1096, it tops WVU’s 1868 founding by almost 800 years. The three weeks that I will be in Oxford is part of a summer program offered by the West Virginia University English Department. The program will be headed up by a small group of WVU professors who will serve as tutors and guides as we explore British literature. Along with diligently studying the British poetic form, I will also be visiting Big Ben, Stratford-upon-Avon, Buckingham Palace, Stonehenge, Wessex, Cotswold, and the Lake District. :)
Though I am completely excited, I’m a little nervous too. This will be the longest that I have ever been away from all members of my family!


In New York…
Well, the first leg of our journey is complete—with the long one still to come. We landed safely in New York with very little turbulence. I had to hold my breath when they were checking my luggage in Pittsburgh. There is a 50lbs weight limit on baggage and after an hour of rearranging and decreasing extra items last night in my living room, I certainly didn’t want to go through that experience again in the middle of the airport. As I heaved my bag upon the scale, I glanced nervously at the red flashing number: 51lbs, one pound too heavy! I offered my most innocent and winning smile to the bag-checker-man who, much to my delight, looked the other way and slid my bag onto the luggage belt. My second trial came after we boarded the plane in Pittsburgh. The plane was tiny! There were only four seats in each row, with maybe 12 rows total. (I know that there are planes 20x smaller, but this was the smallest that I have ever been on, so needless to say I was a little nervous.) Well, my fears were completely unfounded because the flight ended up being quite smooth. I sat beside a very friendly PT from Salt Lake City. We talked about traveling, cross-country, track, WVU, missionary work, home schooling, foreign language, backpacking, and teaching—some of my most favorite subjects!
Well, it is now 20mins until we board our jet to Europe! Updates soon to come. :)